Demolition of iconic shops in Varanasi evokes strong emotions from locals

The demolition of two renowned eateries as part of a road-widening project in Varanasi has evoked sharp criticism from the Opposition and strong sentiments from locals, while the ruling BJP has defended the action, saying it is aimed at improving public convenience.

In the demolition drive carried out late at night on Tuesday, 17 June, authorities brought down several structures including two of the city's most iconic food joints — Pahalwan Ki Lassi and Chachi Ki Kachori — at the Ravidas crossing in the temple town's Lanka area.

The move has left residents deeply emotional, with many expressing concern over the loss of a key part of the city's culinary and cultural heritage.

Locals recounted that Chachi Ki Kachori had been around for nearly a century and was not only known for its flavour but also for the language used by chachi (aunt), which had become part of her charm.

Professors from the nearby Banaras Hindu University, as well as locals, often gathered at the stall not just for food but for her sharp-tongued blessings.

Similarly, Pahalwan ki Lassi, known for its rich rabri-topped lassi served in a variety of flavours, had a history spanning over 70 years. Bollywood celebrities and several political leaders have been regulars at both these establishments.

Locals said the shop's owner grew emotional as the demolition began, offering a final salute to the place before walking away. Residents expressed deep regret, saying the unique taste and heritage of these spots may never be recreated. "This is more than just about losing a shop. It feels like we've lost a piece of Varanasi itself," said a local.

The opposition Samajwadi Party spokesperson Manoj Rai Dhoopchandi said, "The soul of Varanasi has been hurt. These weren't just shops — they were cultural landmarks."

However, Varanasi's BJP mayor Ashok Tiwari defended the action, saying the road expansion was aimed at improving public convenience and that due process had been followed. "All affected shopkeepers were served notices two months ago. Those whose land is acquired will receive due compensation," Tiwari said. "The taste of Kashi is not going anywhere — only the location is changing."