Ganga swallows Varanasi ghats, pushes cremations to doorsteps

Rising water levels in the Ganga have submerged all 84 ghats in Varanasi, including the Manikarnika and Harishchandra cremation ghats, disrupting cremations, tourism-linked businesses and the livelihoods of thousands of people dependent on the riverfront economy.

More than 100 temples along the ghats have also been partially submerged, while several houses and buildings near the river have been affected by the rising water.

The disruption has forced around 5,000 shops operating along the ghats to shut or relocate. Boat operations have also been suspended, leaving around 3,000 small and large boats grounded.

The impact is particularly severe for daily-wage earners and small traders who depend almost entirely on visitors to the ghats for their income.

Cremations disrupted at Harishchandra Ghat

The rising water has sharply reduced the space available for cremations at Harishchandra Ghat.

On normal days, more than 50 bodies can be cremated simultaneously. With the floodwater occupying much of the available space, only around eight to 10 pyres can now operate at a time.

Members of the Dom community, who traditionally conduct cremations at the ghats, said families are having to wait three to four hours for their turn.

The problem has been compounded by wet firewood. With lower areas inundated, firewood stored near the river has become damp and has had to be moved to higher ground.

At Harishchandra Ghat, some cremations are being conducted on rooftops and in narrow lanes because of the shortage of space. Wet wood is also making cremations take significantly longer, with some taking up to five hours.

Local residents said the situation has become more difficult because of rain, accumulated waste and inadequate sanitation. The narrow lanes have limited space for families waiting with bodies, while the lack of adequate toilets has added to their problems.

Shopkeepers face prolonged loss of income

The flooding has also hit thousands of businesses operating around Varanasi's ghats.

These include shops selling flowers and garlands, puja material, food and beverages, toys and other goods used by pilgrims and tourists.

Shopkeepers say they have been forced to relocate their businesses away from the riverfront, but the alternative locations attract fewer customers.

Arvind, who runs a flower and garland shop at Assi Ghat, said the closure had raised concerns about meeting household expenses and paying his children's school fees.

Another shopkeeper, 70-year-old Gopal, has moved his small business selling damru, bead garlands and puja items from the ghat to a narrow lane.

He said the three months during the monsoon are particularly difficult because customers are fewer and sales fall sharply.

Tea and Maggi seller Tinku said expenses continue even when income stops, with families still having to pay for food, electricity, education and other necessities.

If the disruption continues for several weeks, traders say their savings could quickly be exhausted.

Thousands of boats remain grounded

Boat operations along the Ganga have been suspended since August 10 as a precautionary measure.

Boatmen say around 3,000 boats operating across Varanasi's 84 ghats have been affected.

A boatman, Ajju, said thousands of families depend directly or indirectly on the sector. Boat owners are also struggling to pay workers employed on their vessels.

Boatmen are concerned that strong currents could break mooring ropes and carry away boats. Some have been forced to keep watch over their vessels at night.

Operations are expected to resume only after the water level falls and authorities determine that conditions are safe.

Water level remains below warning mark

According to the Central Water Commission, the Ganga's water level at the Rajghat gauge stood at 68.22 metres at 10 am on Tuesday.

The level was falling at around 2 cm per hour at the time.

The warning level at Rajghat is 70.262 metres, while the danger mark is 71.262 metres. The current level is therefore around 2.04 metres below the warning mark.

Despite the water level remaining below the warning threshold, the flooding has already affected large parts of the riverfront and disrupted economic activity around the historic ghats.

For thousands of traders, boatmen, cremation workers and other residents whose livelihoods depend on the Ganga, the prolonged rise in water has turned the annual monsoon disruption into a serious economic and logistical challenge.